Salwar Kameez
What is a Salwar Kameez?
Salwar kameez, also referred to as shalwar kameez, is a traditional garment worn by both women and men in South Asia. Salwar, are loose pyjama-like trousers which are wide at the top and narrow at the ankle. It is gathered at the waist and held up by a drawstring. The pants can be wide and baggy or more narrow, and even made of fabric cut on the bias. In the latter case they are known as churidar.
The kameez is a long shirt or tunic which is usually cut straight and flat. Older kameez use traditional cuts whereas modern kameez are more likely to have European-inspired set-in sleeves. Modern versions of the feminine kameez can be much less modest than traditional versions. The kameez may be cut with a deep neckline, sewn in diaphanous fabrics, or styled in cap-sleeve or sleeveless designs. The kameez side seams may be split up to the thigh or even the waistline, and it may be worn with the salwar slung low on the hips. When women wear the salwar kameez, they usually wear a long scarf or shawl called a dupatta around the head or neck.
For Muslim women, the dupatta is a less stringent alternative to the chador or burka. For Sikh and Hindu women (especially those from northern India, where the salwar kameez is most popular), the dupatta is useful when the head must be covered, as in a Gurdwara or a Temple, or in the presence of elders. For other women, the dupatta is simply a stylish accessory that can be worn over one shoulder or draped around the chest and over both shoulders.
Salwar Kameez History
In India, the Salwar Kameez was originally confined to the North but quickly became popular across the nation. Though, later in origin from the saree, the salwar kameez has emerged as the convenient and modest alternative and also as one that flatters practically any body type. Essentially a medieval garment, the salwar kameez was brought to India by the Muslim rulers, from the year 750 AD and grew in popularity with the spread of Islam.
By varying the fabric, colour and the level of embroidery and decoration, the salwar kameez can be formal, casual, dressy, or plain, and it can also be made to suit practically all climates. Indian dressing styles are marked by many variations, both religious and regional with a wide choice of textures and styles. Cotton cloth has always been worn in India by the masses while the rich favoured the use of silks. Elaborate head-dresses and jewellery were even sported by men. The earlier dress code revolved around wrapping the body with varied lengths of cloth.
The women wore their costumes in three parts as described above. The shirts were very small extending up to the abdomen, with a rich embroidery and Zardozi work that were first brought into the country. The bottoms were known as the Sharara, which were loose flowing skirts. The heads were always covered with the dupatta, which was both a mark of respect and honour. The Kashmiri and the Himachali women wear a similar dress, though theirs is often made from thicker fabrics to suit the climate. In Lucknow, the baggy pyjamas are replaced by tight and long leggings that form many folds at the ankles. These are called churidars, suggesting 'bangles' and are so comfortable that it is worn by most working women across India. As with all garments, the salwar kameez have transformed with time. Salwar kameez have been tried out with various traditional combinations like the Lacha/lachcha, Sharara, etc. and more contemporary forms like the parallel trousers.
